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Post by RichieBarkerOut! on May 24, 2017 21:55:47 GMT
My PC's CPU is regularly overheating when it's been worked hard with photo editing etc., so it's time for a CPU cooler. I have a bit of knowledge of of the insides of a PC, but I know very little about adding a cooling system. I'm thinking of keeping my budget under £100 so any advice on what units to go for (preferably quiet) would be appreciated.
CPU AMD FX-6300
Motherboard ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A97 LE R2.0 (Socket 942)
GPU 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 730
RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 802MHz
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 7:56:15 GMT
My PC's CPU is regularly overheating when it's been worked hard with photo editing etc., so it's time for a CPU cooler. I have a bit of knowledge of of the insides of a PC, but I know very little about adding a cooling system. I'm thinking of keeping my budget under £100 so any advice on what units to go for (preferably quiet) would be appreciated. CPU AMD FX-6300 Motherboard ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A97 LE R2.0 (Socket 942) GPU 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 802MHz Well I take it you're not gaming with the GT 730 card and a FX-6300. A very simple Hyper 212 by Coolermaster would do you good, great for keeping the cpu cool especially while web browsing Linky . If you were planning to overclock and game though I'd recommend something beefier, like Dark Rock 2 and 3, something like that. It should come with some thermal paste to apply to the processor as well, so you'll get low temperatures. But the FX line are known for running hot anyway. |
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Post by RichieBarkerOut! on May 25, 2017 8:44:46 GMT
My PC's CPU is regularly overheating when it's been worked hard with photo editing etc., so it's time for a CPU cooler. I have a bit of knowledge of of the insides of a PC, but I know very little about adding a cooling system. I'm thinking of keeping my budget under £100 so any advice on what units to go for (preferably quiet) would be appreciated. CPU AMD FX-6300 Motherboard ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A97 LE R2.0 (Socket 942) GPU 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 802MHz Well I take it you're not gaming with the GT 730 card and a FX-6300. A very simple Hyper 212 by Coolermaster would do you good, great for keeping the cpu cool especially while web browsing Linky . If you were planning to overclock and game though I'd recommend something beefier, like Dark Rock 2 and 3, something like that. It should come with some thermal paste to apply to the processor as well, so you'll get low temperatures. But the FX line are known for running hot anyway. Thanks for that. You're right, I'm not doing full on gaming with it, although I do run a couple of Android NOX emulators at the same time, and that really works the CPU. I went with the GT 730 as it's meant to be better at photo manipulation than a full on gaming GPU (for that price range). So do I just unplug the existing fan and replace it with the Coolmaster? |
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Post by santy on May 25, 2017 9:43:13 GMT
I've not had an AMD processor for years, but they're mostly the same in that they have a fixing onto the motherboard usually in a kind of push & turn mechanism, you just have to undo each of those and lift it off. You will however, need to clean the processor and apply new thermal paste before applying a new heatsink and fan. That in itself could actually provide a decent amount of cooling benefit, just with a better compound. www.novatech.co.uk/products/arctic-silver-arcticlean/arcticsilverarcticlean.html - to clean www.novatech.co.uk/products/cooler-master-high-performance-thermal-paste-4-6g/htk-002-u1-gp.html - new paste (you apply about the size of a grain of rice) Now, how confident you're feeling in regards to removing the processor and mounting it back in correctly are choices you'd have to decide on for yourself. While not overclocking, one thing you can do (and I still do even while overclocking) is decreasing the voltage to the CPU and getting more out of it. How much mileage you'll get out of this varies from chip to chip, but you would probably find your processor can be stable on a good bit less voltage than it currently is and that in turn will help to keep on top of temperatures. The fan/fans on the heatsink you would ideally want in a push/pull set-up but you also need to make sure they're high static pressure fans. I usually buy separate fans because more often than not, there is no details or spec attached to the stock fans they sell with stuff. |
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 10:22:57 GMT
Well I take it you're not gaming with the GT 730 card and a FX-6300. A very simple Hyper 212 by Coolermaster would do you good, great for keeping the cpu cool especially while web browsing Linky . If you were planning to overclock and game though I'd recommend something beefier, like Dark Rock 2 and 3, something like that. It should come with some thermal paste to apply to the processor as well, so you'll get low temperatures. But the FX line are known for running hot anyway. Thanks for that. You're right, I'm not doing full on gaming with it, although I do run a couple of Android NOX emulators at the same time, and that really works the CPU. I went with the GT 730 as it's meant to be better at photo manipulation than a full on gaming GPU (for that price range). So do I just unplug the existing fan and replace it with the Coolmaster? Well the stock fan uses a push pin or something so you have to take out the original. Then remove the thermal paste. You'll have to install a backplate for the 212 I think, then apply some thermal paste. |
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 10:48:36 GMT
I've not had an AMD processor for years, but they're mostly the same in that they have a fixing onto the motherboard usually in a kind of push & turn mechanism, you just have to undo each of those and lift it off. You will however, need to clean the processor and apply new thermal paste before applying a new heatsink and fan. That in itself could actually provide a decent amount of cooling benefit, just with a better compound. www.novatech.co.uk/products/arctic-silver-arcticlean/arcticsilverarcticlean.html - to clean www.novatech.co.uk/products/cooler-master-high-performance-thermal-paste-4-6g/htk-002-u1-gp.html - new paste (you apply about the size of a grain of rice) Now, how confident you're feeling in regards to removing the processor and mounting it back in correctly are choices you'd have to decide on for yourself. While not overclocking, one thing you can do (and I still do even while overclocking) is decreasing the voltage to the CPU and getting more out of it. How much mileage you'll get out of this varies from chip to chip, but you would probably find your processor can be stable on a good bit less voltage than it currently is and that in turn will help to keep on top of temperatures. The fan/fans on the heatsink you would ideally want in a push/pull set-up but you also need to make sure they're high static pressure fans. I usually buy separate fans because more often than not, there is no details or spec attached to the stock fans they sell with stuff. Would he need to remove the CPU for Clean + Mounting though? I've always kept the CPU in socket to clean plus install a backplate. |
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2017 10:53:25 GMT
Wouldn't advise you to change the processor fan yourself, it's a delicate job.
Take your PC with you to the shop you buy the cooler from and ask them to fit it while you are there it only takes a few minutes but as I say takes a delicate touch and care. Draw where you cables fit before removing them if you are in doubt, makes reassembly sooooo much easier. Especially sound card cables.
What you want is good cooling on the CPU and intake fans at the front of the case and exhaust fans at the top rear heat rises remember so top of case exhaust fans are good too.
I do not like side case fans they interrupt the air flow through the case.
If you have case fans fitted make sure they are clean as many intake fans in particular get clogged with fluff from carpets etc.
While you are having your CPU fan fitted ask them to clean your graphics card fan as again this can be a delicate job.
If you do it yourself remember to UNPLUG the main power in not just switch it off.
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 11:01:56 GMT
Wouldn't advise you to change the processor fan yourself, it's a delicate job.Take your PC with you to the shop you buy the cooler from and ask them to fit it while you are there it only takes a few minutes but as I say takes a delicate touch and care. Draw where you cables fit before removing them if you are in doubt, makes reassembly sooooo much easier. Especially sound card cables. What you want is good cooling on the CPU and intake fans at the front of the case and exhaust fans at the top rear heat rises remember so top of case exhaust fans are good too. I do not like side case fans they interrupt the air flow through the case. If you have case fans fitted make sure they are clean as many intake fans in particular get clogged with fluff from carpets etc. While you are having your CPU fan fitted ask them to clean your graphics card fan as again this can be a delicate job. If you do it yourself remember to UNPLUG the main power in not just switch it off. For the first time it definitely is a delicate job because the fear of fucking up installation is mega. But I also guess the only way to learn to do it is to do it, YouTube videos are good for this. Id say bigger problems are putting too much paste on the first time and having the wrong air flow by fan. Fuck I remember how fucking terrified I was building my first PC, but it's a nice sight seeing the POST screen come on! |
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2017 11:23:44 GMT
Wouldn't advise you to change the processor fan yourself, it's a delicate job.Take your PC with you to the shop you buy the cooler from and ask them to fit it while you are there it only takes a few minutes but as I say takes a delicate touch and care. Draw where you cables fit before removing them if you are in doubt, makes reassembly sooooo much easier. Especially sound card cables. What you want is good cooling on the CPU and intake fans at the front of the case and exhaust fans at the top rear heat rises remember so top of case exhaust fans are good too. I do not like side case fans they interrupt the air flow through the case. If you have case fans fitted make sure they are clean as many intake fans in particular get clogged with fluff from carpets etc. While you are having your CPU fan fitted ask them to clean your graphics card fan as again this can be a delicate job. If you do it yourself remember to UNPLUG the main power in not just switch it off. For the first time it definitely is a delicate job because the fear of fucking up installation is mega. But I also guess the only way to learn to do it is to do it, YouTube videos are good for this. Id say bigger problems are putting too much paste on the first time and having the wrong air flow by fan. Fuck I remember how fucking terrified I was building my first PC, but it's a nice sight seeing the POST screen come on! Indeed but it's not nice telling someone that they have crushed their cpu core and shorted out their mother board, broke the paste bond on the graphics cooler and run up a bill of £300 for a £10 cooler that any good local PC shop should fit for you for free.
There is an arrow on the side of every fan that shows the direction of air flow.
We had a guy who fitted his motherboard with wood screws and another who filed his memory with a rat tailed file to make it fit another used blu tack to fit his case fans.
PCs are not for everyone.
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Post by santy on May 25, 2017 11:26:19 GMT
Would he need to remove the CPU for Clean + Mounting though? I've always kept the CPU in socket to clean plus install a backplate. It depends on how confident you are I guess, I prefer to remove it because it minimises any potential risks, its not the easiest to make mistakes in the first place, but I prefer to do it just in case. Also, the heat rises thing isn't really a consideration in a PC. Air goes where you push it & if there are case fans, the air gets cycled through so quickly that heat rising never comes into play. Of course it is more efficient to do it that way, but not at all because of heat rising. I've got 3 fans along the top of my case, the front of the 3 is actually an intake because it'd be bad to draw air out there before it got to the 240mm radiator across the 2 further back slots, but I have a Corsair 780T case so have the luxury of many case fan slots. I wouldn't be afraid of doing this yourself though, just be careful and patient with it and make sure the fans you use are high static pressure. It's not as daunting as it might sound, and I wouldn't be too confident in actually asking those at a PC shop to do it. Their money is in services as the margins on hardware are practically non-existent for smaller businesses when they're competing on price with the likes of Overclockers, Novatech and Aria. |
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 11:54:20 GMT
For the first time it definitely is a delicate job because the fear of fucking up installation is mega. But I also guess the only way to learn to do it is to do it, YouTube videos are good for this. Id say bigger problems are putting too much paste on the first time and having the wrong air flow by fan. Fuck I remember how fucking terrified I was building my first PC, but it's a nice sight seeing the POST screen come on! Indeed but it's not nice telling someone that they have crushed their cpu core and shorted out their mother board, broke the paste bond on the graphics cooler and run up a bill of £300 for a £10 cooler that any good local PC shop should fit for you for free.
There is an arrow on the side of every fan that shows the direction of air flow.
We had a guy who fitted his motherboard with wood screws and another who filed his memory with a rat tailed file to make it fit another used blu tack to fit his case fans.
PCs are not for everyone.
Oh definitely I agree that PC's aren't for everyone. I think sometimes that people do rush in though when building or trying stuff. The wood screws and blu tack examples are pretty bad. But I realise I'm talking from the perspective of someone who has built computers and upgraded. I completely understand what you're saying though from the perspective of someone who doesn't mess with internals and just wants it to turn on and work. |
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Post by chigstoke on May 25, 2017 11:57:48 GMT
Would he need to remove the CPU for Clean + Mounting though? I've always kept the CPU in socket to clean plus install a backplate. It depends on how confident you are I guess, I prefer to remove it because it minimises any potential risks, its not the easiest to make mistakes in the first place, but I prefer to do it just in case. Also, the heat rises thing isn't really a consideration in a PC. Air goes where you push it & if there are case fans, the air gets cycled through so quickly that heat rising never comes into play. Of course it is more efficient to do it that way, but not at all because of heat rising. I've got 3 fans along the top of my case, the front of the 3 is actually an intake because it'd be bad to draw air out there before it got to the 240mm radiator across the 2 further back slots, but I have a Corsair 780T case so have the luxury of many case fan slots. I wouldn't be afraid of doing this yourself though, just be careful and patient with it and make sure the fans you use are high static pressure. It's not as daunting as it might sound, and I wouldn't be too confident in actually asking those at a PC shop to do it. Their money is in services as the margins on hardware are practically non-existent for smaller businesses when they're competing on price with the likes of Overclockers, Novatech and Aria. I've always been one for acoustics than fans. I've got a fairly cheap Game Max Silent case, 120mm rear case fan, 2 x 120mm front fans Corsair AF120 with a soundproof plate on top plus sound dampening in the case. But the rear case fan is a Arctic F12 Pro so very loud, plus GPU coil whine because it's an XFX R9 Fury. |
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Post by santy on May 25, 2017 12:57:54 GMT
I'm the complete opposite, but I definitely think cooling plays an enormous part of extending the life. The only upgrade my old PC which was bought in May 2010 (i7 920 D0) was graphics card, it finally went in April so I just put my r9 390 in my new PC but it had still been able to play witcher on max settings, fallout on max settings etc. 7 years of a 4ghz overclock (downscaled to 3.6 in 2016 mind to extend its life a bit further as I was hoping to get to the coffeelake processors before upgrading) is a good life for a processor.
I do think as long as you get 4 years out of a PC its a fantastic investment I usually ballpark spend around £1200 and that staggered across the years works out great for time vs money spent.
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Post by chigstoke on May 26, 2017 10:22:33 GMT
I'm the complete opposite, but I definitely think cooling plays an enormous part of extending the life. The only upgrade my old PC which was bought in May 2010 (i7 920 D0) was graphics card, it finally went in April so I just put my r9 390 in my new PC but it had still been able to play witcher on max settings, fallout on max settings etc. 7 years of a 4ghz overclock (downscaled to 3.6 in 2016 mind to extend its life a bit further as I was hoping to get to the coffeelake processors before upgrading) is a good life for a processor. I do think as long as you get 4 years out of a PC its a fantastic investment I usually ballpark spend around £1200 and that staggered across the years works out great for time vs money spent. Yeah I think the investment is well worth it in the long run. Hell I still use a 3570k at 4.5GHz and Z77x MoBo because I haven't had to upgrade, it still copes well. I see no reason why I need to upgrade any of my specs atm (R9 Fury, 24GB DDR3 HyperX Fury, 2 x 1TB in Simple Raid and 120GB SSD). I know this will still last me ,maybe the 3570k will go in a year and the RAM to DDR4. It was better than the current consoles in when it was done in 2011 and still is now, moreso in fact |
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2017 22:24:09 GMT
I'm running a gtx970 on 3 x 24" screens in sli with a comport converter on the centre monitor 4320 x 900 resolution. Excellent for gaming especially driving sims.
A nice Logitech G13 gaming pad and a Logitech g400 mouse which I have had for years now on a 3gig I7 . I've upgraded the boot drive to an ssd but still have 2tb normal sata as the games drive.
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Post by RichieBarkerOut! on May 28, 2017 20:19:58 GMT
Just a quick update. I decided to get medieval with my PC, and use some compressed gas and my Dyson on it, and the difference is immense! It's running on average 20-30 degrees cooler.
Thanks for all the advice above.
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